С чего начать ремонт в туалете: С чего начать ремонт в туалете: последовательность работ, советы специалистов

дизайн, стоимость, важные моменты Какую ремонт сделать туалете и ванной Главная→Изделия→С чего начать ремонт туалета – важные правила. Ремонт в туалете с чего начать: дизайн, стоимость, важные моменты Какую ремонт сделать туалете и ванной

Рано или поздно всем из нас приходится сталкиваться с такой проблемой как ремонт туалетной комнаты. В отличие от остальных помещений, для качественного ремонта может потребоваться замена санфаянса, водопроводных труб, установка счетчиков. А стоимость отделки может отличаться в разы, в зависимости от выбранного материала. В этой статье мы разберем как сделать качественную работу при минимальных затратах и с чего начать ремонт в туалете.

Весь процесс ремонта туалета можно разбить для удобства на отдельные этапы.

Перед началом всех работ необходимо проработать дизайн и компоновку санузла, выбрать предполагаемый тип отделочных материалов и сантехники, составить смету с учетом непредвиденных расходов.

Очистка помещения

Полноценный ремонт в хрущевке подразумевает очистку от всего установленного в туалете. Должны остаться только подводящие трубы, стояк и голые стены с потолком. Для удобства работы лучше проводить в следующей последовательности:

• Отбиваем старую плитку со стен с помощью перфоратора или молотка с зубилом. Старую штукатурку или обои также лучше удалить, замочив предварительно водой. Если мы будем производить отделку на старом покрытии, то придется сократить размеры помещения на 3-5 см, что для такого маленького пространства нежелательно. Кроме того, это ненадежно и недолговечно.
• Снимаем кафельную плитку на полу. Получившиеся поверхности зачищаем металлической щеткой-насадкой на дрель.
• Отмываем побелку с потолка и смываем пыль и грязь со стен.
• Теперь можно приступать к демонтажу сантехники. Для этого перекрываются краны подачи холодной и горячей воды. Если производится ремонт совмещенного санузла, то необходимо будет отсоединить раковину вместе со смесителем и сливом. Обычно после старых раковин остаются кронштейны крепления – их также необходимо демонтировать.
• Сам унитаз можно оставить до последнего, чтобы была возможность им пользоваться. Перед снятием спускаем воду из бачка, откручиваем крепления унитаза к полу и отбиваем место слива в стояк, если он зацементирован. Трубу слива убираем до самого стояка, она больше уже не пригодится.

Чем лучше будет проведена очистка помещения на данном этапе, тем проще будет потом заниматься отделочными работами, особенно с плиткой и обоями. Исключение составляет отделка панелями из пвх, для которых достаточно изготовить каркас поверх старых стен.

Замена и ремонт коммуникаций

Получив открытый доступ к стояку и подводящим трубам горячей и холодной воды, можно приступать к их замене, ремонту, установке счетчиков. В старых домах износ всех коммуникаций достигает предельных значений, поэтому стоит позаботиться о замене стояка и труб в своей квартире. Самым лучшим материалом для стояка будет армированный полипропилен, а все работы по его замене лучше доверить специалистам из ЖЭКа. Это будет быстрее и качественнее самостоятельной замены. Ответственность за проведенные работы и возможные аварии будет лежать на монтажниках и управляющей компании.

Дальнейшую внутриквартирную разводку можно сделать своими силами, используя металлопластиковую трубу или гофрированную нержавейку. Пластиковые трубы хорошо режутся и легко соединяются между собой с помощью фитингов и специального паяльника. Такое соединение получается очень надежным и долговечным, а широкий ассортимент труб и фитингов позволяет построить в санузле разводку любой конфигурации.

Сами трубы серого или белого цвета смотрятся достаточно эстетично, но правильнее будет уложить их в специальные короба, которые потом закроются отделочными материалами.

Для маленького туалета это оптимальное решение – стояк закрывается вертикальным, а разводка труб — горизонтальным коробом из влагостойкого гипсокартона или фанеры. В вертикальный короб можно дополнительно уложить шумоизоляцию.

Также возможен вариант укладки трубы в специально выдолбленной полости в стене. Такой вариант выглядит эстетичнее и занимает меньше места. Необходимо только позаботиться о легкодоступности вентилей, перекрывающих воду в квартиру.

Подготовка и облицовка поверхностей

Начинать предпочтительнее всего со стен и потолка. Так бетонные стены достаточно просто , а кирпичным или шлакоблочным стенам может потребоваться . Вообще, плоскости в таких маленьких помещениях редко бывают с сильными отклонениями, иначе придется прибегнуть к облицовке гипсокартоном или панелями ПВХ.

Для шпаклевки нам понадобятся два шпателя – рабочий, длиной 30 см и вспомогательный, длиной 5 см, шпаклевочная смесь на цементной основе, например, Ветонит. Желательно дрель со специальной насадкой и ведро. Готовая смесь коротким шпателем наносится на основной, а затем размазывается снизу вверх по стене. Меняя угол наклона рабочего инструмента можно заполнять глубокие впадины и выравнивать уже нанесенную шпаклевку. Через 3-4 часа можно повторно обработать проблемные места. Время полного засыхания шпаклевки составляет 24 часа. Затем стена ошкуривается и грунтуется.

Оставив стены сохнуть, можно заняться выравниванием пола. Для этого применяется быстросохнущая стяжка. Смесь готовится из расчета на 1 м2 при толщине 1 см потребуется 12-13 кг сухого материала. Полученный раствор выливаем тонким слоем на пол, а затем разравниваем шпателем, сверяясь с установленными маячками и уровнем. Необходимо получить ровную горизонтальную поверхность.

Когда все подготовительные работы сделаны настало время воплотить задуманные идеи ремонта туалета. Начинать чистовую отделку также лучше со стен и потолка.

Покрытия для стен

При выборе материала необходимо руководствоваться теми же принципами, что и для ванной комнаты или совмещенного санузла. В старых домах туалет это маленькое непроветриваемое помещение с повышенной влажностью, в котором периодически будет проводиться влажная уборка.

Поэтому предпочтение отдается влагостойким материалам, которые не впитывают запахи и легко моются.

Самые популярные:

• ПВХ панели – дешевы, быстро наклеиваются, не требуют предварительной подготовки стен. Очень широкий выбор, в том числе есть модели с 3D эффектом и ярко выраженной текстурой. Отличный вариант для косметического ремонта туалета.
• Керамическая плитка – подкупает своими характеристиками и благородным дизайном. Она долговечна, на ней не образуется грибок и плесень. Такой тип покрытия всегда выглядит дорого, единственный минус — это стоимость и трудность установки.
• Обои для туалета, хорошо подходят виниловые и флизелиновые моющиеся, а также стеклообои. От бумажных или натуральных лучше отказаться из-за их высокой гигроскопичности и способности вп

90000 How To Fix A Toilet That Is Constantly Running — DIY Toilet Repair Step By Step 90001 90002 Fixing a constantly running toilet is something everyone needs to know how to do themselves. This 90003 DIY toilet repair 90004 guide will show you the things you need to check yourself to avoid calling a plumber. The inner workings of a toilet are quite simple and you do not have to be a maintenance person to troubleshoot and repair these problems yourself. 90005 90002 The most common issue of a faulty toilet is that the toilet is constantly «running».Basically this means that the water coming into the toilet tank will not shut off. The most common reason for this to happen is the toilet flapper (aka flush valve) is worn out and is not «seating» correctly on the bottom of the toilet tank. When the flapper does not sit correctly or has become deformed, the water will not be able to fill the toilet tank and the water will constantly be flowing and will never finish filling the bowl. When this happens, the easiest and fastest way to fix this issue is to replace the toilet flapper.This valve will cost you from $ 3 to $ 7 dollars depending on where you purchase it. It should take only 5 minutes to install yourself and you do not need to turn the water off or take the toilet apart. Since this is the most common toilet fault, we will explain how to remove and replace this yourself below. 90005 90002 90009 90003 WHERE IS IT AND WHAT DOES IT DO? 90004 — Your toilets flapper valve is located in the bottom of the tank where the water is stored. The purpose of the flapper is to seal the tanks drain hole until the handle is once again pressed.When you flush the toilet it pulls the handle to the flapper valve upward and releases the stored water into the toilet bowl. If the flapper is damaged, has algae build up, is warped or worn, it should be cleaned or replaced. A bad or worn flapper will result in the toilet constantly running, refilling or making dripping and running water sounds. 90005 90002 90003 HOW DO I EASILY REPLACE THE FLAPPER ON MY TOILET? 90004 — First, remove the toilet tank lid on the rear of the toilet. 90003 90017 NOTE: This next step is optional if you do not mind getting your hands wet in CLEAN water.90018 90004 If you must have the driest hands possible, then turn off the water valve against the wall and located under the toilet tank. 90003 90017 NOTE: The reason we suggest to NOT turn the water valve off is because 9 times out of 10 this valve will snap and cause you to replace this valve also. 90018 90004 So if you DID turn the water valve off then flush the toilet to drain out the water from the tank …. 90005 90002 The rubber flapper valve is at the bottom middle area of ​​the tank and is connected to the flushing handle by a plastic or metal chain.Next put your hands in the toilet tank and check to see if the flapper is damaged or worn out and causing the leakage. Clean the flapper and drain hole with a rag removing any build-up of algae and make sure the areas are smooth and clean. If the problem was just a build-up of algae or similar, clean and put back in place. Test the toilet and if the problem is gone, you are done. 90005 90002 If the flapper and drain can not be cleaned and the flapper is damaged or warped, then the flapper should be replaced.Usually replacing just the flapper will do the trick but in some cases the flapper AND the drain seat must be removed and replaced. The flapper is easily replaced by purchasing a universal replacement and installing it in your toilet. Sometimes flapper’s vary and you will have to cut the sides to fit into your toilet. Take a look at the old flapper and make sure they are similar. Then install it in the toilet. Once you install the new flapper, turn the water valve back on if you turned it off and FLUSH the toilet.If the toilet flushes, fills, and the water turns off, then SUCCESS you are finished fixing your toilet. If the same problem persists then have a look in the toilet tank when you flush to determine what the fault is. 90005 90002 NOTE: A toilet flapper valve can look slightly different as they are made universally and can vary in color and sometimes shape. See below for different types and what exactly you are looking for when doing this repair yourself. As you can see in the pictures below, one type has a plastic chain and the other has a metal chain.Also, one is a brownish red and the other is a blue. Please note that you do not have to get the EXACT flapper as before, most any will work as they are all universal. Wal-Mart, The Home Depot, Lowe’s and Ace Hardware all sell universal flapper valves. THE EASIEST WAY IS TO REMOVE YOUR OLD FLAPPER AND TAKE IT TO THE STORE TO MATCH IT UP. This way you will not come home with the wrong piece to fix your toilet. Also, if you have suggestions to make this job or troubleshooting even easier, please leave a comment below.90005 90002 90032 90003 The flapper in your toilet is located here. (Most common cause for toilet constantly running) 90004 90005 90002 90037 90003 Remove and Replace the old toilet flapper valve as shown above. 90004 90005 90002 90042 90003 Toilet Schematic — Diagram 90004 90005 90046 Please Share Our DIY Repair Help Projects: 90047 90002 ALLEN VETTER — DIY Repair Assistant 90005 Allen is a Home Maintenance / Appliance tech and the author / creator of this website. He has 33 years of experience troubleshooting and repairing all types of machinery.Contact here 90050 90051 More «Do It Yourself» DIY Tips, Tricks, Ideas, Repair: 90052 90050 90050 90002 Tagged as: how to fix a toilet, repair running toilet, toilet flapper valve, toilet repair 90005.90000 90001 2020 Cost of Toilet Repair 90002 90003 90004 90005 90006 90007 90008 90005 90010 90008 90005 90006 90014 90005 90006 90017 90007 90006 90020 90007 90006 DIY Shutoff Valve Replacement: $ 10- $ 25 90007 90006 90025 90007 90006 Toilet Replacement: $ 50- $ 350 + 90007 90006 90030 90007 90006 Plumber: $ 45- $ 150 Per Hour 90007 90008 90035 90007 90008 90005 90006 90007 90008 90005 90006 90044 Many toilet repairs can be relatively straightforward.h3ouse.net describes and illustrates the basic parts of a toilet 90045 [1] 90046 that might need repair. Typical costs: 90007 90008 90005 90006 90051 90052 Do-it-yourself replacement of a leaking toilet shutoff valve typically costs 90053 $ 10- $ 25 90054 for new parts; requires no special tools or skills; and usually takes 1-2 hours. Broken or failing parts inside the tank (like a fill valve, flapper, ball cock or tank lever) may cause a toilet to run continuously. DIY replacement parts for this problem typically cost 90053 $ 5- $ 50 90054 depending on the brand of toilet, with an average cost of less than 90 053 $ 25 90054.This project might take 20-30 minutes or two hours. 90059 90052 A faulty wax ring / gasket underneath can be the cause of a leaky toilet while a wobbly toilet may need both a new wax ring and a closet flange (the plate under the wax ring). DIY replacement typically costs 90053 $ 5- $ 35 90054; might take 45 minutes to a couple of hours; and is relatively straightforward, although it does require enough strength to lift the toilet. It might also require a heavy-duty 24 «plumbing wrench, which typically costs 90053 $ 30- $ 100 90054 or more.90059 90052 Plumbers either charge a flat fee per job or an hourly rate that varies from 90053 $ 45- $ 75 90054 in low-cost rural areas and 90053 $ 75- $ 150 90054 in high-cost urban areas. Having a plumber or a handyman replace failing toilet parts like a fill valve or flapper can cost 90053 $ 50- $ 150 90054 or more, depending on local rates and the worker’s qualifications. Replacing a shutoff valve typically costs 90053 $ 25- $ 50 90054 and replacing a wax ring (and possibly also the closet flange) might cost 90053 $ 50- $ 200 90054.For example, HoneyDoRepair.com 90045 [2] 90046, a professional handyman service in California, charges 90053 $ 150 90054 for labor and materials to replace a failed wax ring, and a minimum of 90053 $ 190 90054 (two hours at 90053 $ 85 90054 an hour ) plus parts for repairing the tank mechanism (replacing parts, flushing holes, tightening bolts). 90059 90052 Having a plumber or rooter service unclog a toilet can cost 90053 $ 85- $ 150 90054 if it’s a simple cleanout with outside access, but it can cost 90053 $ 150- $ 300 90054 for dismantling a toilet and snaking / drilling the drain line or 90053 $ 300 — $ 600 90054 for more complex projects, where multiple lines need cleaning or if the cleanout requires roof-vent access (which means two plumbers, one on the roof and one operating the equipment on the ground).For do-it-yourselfers, augers or «drain snakes» cost 90053 $ 4 $ 50 90054 for hand held-manual models and 90053 $ 100- $ 500 90054 or more for electric versions on Amazon 90045 [3] 90046. 90059 90052 Replacing a toilet can cost 90053 $ 50- $ 350 90054 for a basic toilet and 90053 $ 50- $ 150 90054 for installation, for a total cost of 90053 $ 100- $ 500 90054. However, designer or specialty toilets can cost 90053 $ 500- $ 3,000 90054 or more, and installation costs increase for a complex project, if parts or lines leading into the toilet need replacing, or if extra labor is required to haul a heavy one-piece toilet upstairs.90059 90110 Related articles: Replacing a Toilet, Unclogging a Toilet, Plumber, Handyman 90007 90008 90005 90006 What should be included: 90007 90008 90005 90006 90051 90052 AskTheBuilder.com describes 10 common toilet problems 90045 [4] 90046. ThisOldHouse.com posts how-to videos showing what it takes to repair: a runny toilet 90045 [5] 90046 by replacing faulty parts; a wobbly toilet 90045 [6] 90046 by replacing the closet flange and wax ring; a sweating toilet tank 90045 [7] 90046; or a pressure-assisted toilet 90045 [8] 90046.90059 90110 Additional costs: 90007 90008 90005 90006 90051 90052 Ignoring a running toilet can add hundreds of dollars — in some cases 90053 $ 1,000 90054 or more — to water bills. Ignoring a leaking toilet can result in damage to the floor and subfloor (and to the downstairs ceiling for an upstairs toilet), and might require replacing part or all of the floor and subfloor, with total costs depending on the extent of the damage. 90059 90110 Shopping for toilet repair: 90007 90008 90005 90006 90051 90052 Ask for recommendations for plumbers or handymen from family, friends, neighbors or co-workers, or at the local home improvement or hardware store.CIDNetwork.net lists tips for choosing a plumber 90045 [9] 90046. 90059 90052 Verify that a plumber is properly bonded, insured and licensed 90045 [10] 90046. Check for any complaints filed with the Better Business Bureau 90045 [11] 90046. 90059 90110 90007 90008 90005 90006 90007 90008 90005 90006 90007 90008 90005 90010 90008 90005 90006 CostHelper News 90007 90008 90005 90006 90007 90008 90005 90010 90008 90183 90006 What People Are Paying — Recent Comments 90007 90008 90005 90006 90044 Page 2 of 2 — 1 90053 2 90054 90007 90008 90005 90006 90196 90005 90006 90053 Posted by: 90054 JT Holm in Cherry Hill, NJ.90007 90006 90053 Posted: 90054 June 14th, 2020 2:06 AM 90007 90008 90005 90006 90053 Project: 90054 Replace old wax ring 90007 90006 90053 Plumber: 90054 $ 260 quote 90007 90008 90035 90196 90005 90006 90221 Cost could have been cheaper, but previous owners hired a plumber and contractor who did not do the job right. So we ran into problems. The first wax ring did not work, so we had to buy the old fashioned type. The tile floor was also grouted over the flange causing more issues that I had to chip away at the floor to get the old anchors out.Then I had to fix it by adding some epoxy putty. I doubled up on my wax rings as my flange was undermount deep because the floor had two layers. I also like to caulk partway around my toilet. So that was extra. 90044 It took several hours, but it was well worth my time for $ 25, and I taught my two boys how to change a wax seal. Nasty job that requires patience and a careful hand. 90223 90007 90008 90035 90007 90008 90005 90010 90008 90005 90006 90007 90008 90035 90007 90035.90000 Fix Noisy Toilet | Stop Toilet Water Hammer or Resonance | Toilet Making Noise When Filling 90001 p.list-title {font-weight: bold; margin-bottom: 0! important; margin-left: -40px! important; } 90002]]> 90003 90004 Read below for information on how to fix: 90005 90006 90003 90004 1. WATER HAMMER: 90005 A loud bang in your pipes after a fill valve shuts off. Water hammer can be caused by worn or damaged faucet washers as well as heavy build up of minerals and rust inside shut off valves (located on the walls of your home).90006 90003 90004 2. RESONANCE: 90005 The rapid banging or «Jack Hammering» sound in a pipe during the fill process, during the flush. 90006 90003 90004 1. WATER HAMMER: 90005 90018 Follow these steps to try and resolve water hammer: 90006 90020 90021 Shut off water supply to the house at the main. 90022 90021 Open all the cold water faucets, start with the highest faucet (2nd or 3rd floor) and work to your lowest faucet (first or basement floor). 90022 90021 Flush all the toilets in the home.90022 90021 Let water drain from open faucets. Wait approximately 20 to 30 minutes. 90022 90021 Turn on water supply to the house at the main. 90022 90021 Wait 5 to 10 minutes to let faucets regain a strong stream and flow water. 90022 90021 Close all the cold-water faucets starting with the lowest faucet (first or basement floor) and to the highest faucet (2nd or 3rd floor). 90022 90021 Toilets will automatically refill. 90022 90021 Once all faucets are closed and toilets filled, flush toilets to check for water hammer.90022 90039 90003 90004 If this does not resolve your issue, try these tips: 90005 90006 90020 90021 Reduce flow from shut off valves (wall or floor valves). 90022 90021 If you are not using a regulated fill valve (a toilet valve that regulates flow into the toilet tank), try replacing the toilet fill valve with a Fluidmaster PerforMAX® Fill Valve. 90022 90021 If reduction of shut off valve does not resolve issue, Fluidmaster recommends calling a plumbing professional to help resolve the issue 90022 90039 90003 90004 2.WATER RESONANCE: 90005 90006 90003 Follow these steps to try and resolve resonant noise (resonance) or watch this video: 90006 90003 90059 90060 90006 90020 90021 90020 90021 Turn off water supply and flush the tank. 90022 90021 Reach inside the tank with your right hand under the float cup and lift it up. With your right hand hold onto the gray shaft keeping the float cup all the way up. Do not allow the float cup to drop or valve shaft to turn. 90022 90021 Place your left hand on the top of the valve cap and while placing your left hand thumb on the side of the arm coming out of the top.Turn the cap and lever counter clockwise 1 / 8th of a turn to unlock. You should be able to lift off the cap and lever from the valve body. 90022 90021 Once the cap assembly has been removed inspect for debris on the seal (rubber disc with pin coming through) and also the valve portion still in the tank. 90022 90021 Hold a cup upside down over the exposed opening of the valve and turn on the water supply full force for 10-15 seconds, allowing the pressure to free any debris inside the valve inlet.90022 90021 Reassemble the top of the valve by placing the cap arm next to the refill tube. To lock, press the cap down while turning it and the arm clockwise. 90022 90039 90022 90039 90003 90081 90006 90003 The bottom hand is lifting up on the float cup which raises the black arm under the top cap. The top hand is gripping the cap while the thumb is pressing on the raised lever arm. 90006 90003 90004 If cleaning out the water system does not resolve issue Fluidmaster recommends calling a plumbing professional to help resolve the issue.90005 90006 .90000 When & Where You Need a Macerating Toilet 90001 90002 There are any number of reasons to add another toilet or full-on bathroom to a home (or wherever). And while it’s easy to get wrapped up in designs, colors, finishes and all of the pretty stuff, our best-laid plans are always subject to the cold and sometimes cruel realities of the existing plumbing system … and gravity. 90003 90004 Many homeowners have had their bathroom dreams dashed because of a location that’s simply too far from the main drain line to work without a major plumbing overhaul.This happens most often in basements, where the would-be bathroom’s drain locations are below grade, or below the level of the main drain line. With no gravitational pull to help move waste out of the home, an alternative means of transport is necessary. Fortunately, there are two possible solutions: the macerating toilet and the sewage ejector pump. 90003 90006 What Is a Macerating Toilet? 90007 90002 When flushed, a normal toilet sends waste through a trap, into a waste line, and onto the main drain line to the sewer or septic tank.Because that drain line is below the level of the toilet, gravity pulls the contents of the waste line into it. It’s the same with sinks and tubs. Macerating toilets (aka «upflush toilets»), on the other hand, send waste to a macerating unit located behind the toilet or in the wall. High-powered blades liquefy the waste, which is then pumped out of the unit through normal pipe that’s been tied into the main drain line. Macerating toilets are more expensive than standard ones, but connecting a small-diameter pipe to an existing system is much easier and far less expensive than redoing the whole thing.90003 90002 90011 Pro Tip: 90012 Grinder systems — essentially standalone macerating units sans toilet — are great for more demanding situations, or when you do not want a new toilet. The grinder pump sits in a sump pit basin and sends liquefied waste off to the main drain. 90003 90002 Be it a basement-turned-bedroom or a workshop toilet outside the house, macerating units can be installed in a number of situations, provided they’re located within range of the main drain. That range is dictated by the power of the pump, and varies between models — usually it’s somewhere between 10-15 feet of vertical lift and 100-150 feet of horizontal run.Many units have additional inlets to hook up a sink (kitchen sinks are not recommended), shower, or tub. Macerating toilets are safe to use with septic systems. 90003 90002 90011 Note: 90012 Macerating toilets are not recommended as a primary toilet. Though this may be unavoidable in some circumstances, understand that because of the various mechanical parts working together in the unit, failure can come more quickly than with a standard toilet. Using a macerating unit all day every day will significantly shorten pump life.Even if your pump does die, do not worry: replacements are available! 90003 90006 Installation & Use 90007 90002 Installing a macerating toilet is fairly straightforward, and can usually be completed within half a day by a highly experienced DIYer. That being said, even small installation errors can lead to bigger problems down the road — something you definitely do not want to deal with (as it typically involves a slurry of raw sewage). Study the instructions thoroughly, and follow them to the letter.Discharge pipe sizing must be correct, the unit must be properly vented, bends should be sweeping, and right angle turns should be accomplished with two 45 ° elbows instead of a 90. Keeping an eye on details like these should help you avoid any major issues . And of course be sure that you have an adequate power supply nearby for the macerator unit — most are equipped with a plug for a standard grounded outlet. 90003 90002 Largely maintenance-free (the macerator and pump are usually permanently sealed in an oil-filled enclosure), macerating toilets should not present any significant problems when installed correctly…provided they’re used correctly. Recent news stories about «flushable» wipes wreaking havoc on municipal water treatment systems have brought about an increased awareness of what’s safe to put down the toilet drain. The same guidelines apply to macerating units, sewage ejector systems, and every other toilet, ever: human waste and toilet paper only — and try not to go overboard on the paper! 90003 90002 90011 Pro Tip: 90012 Cleaning products that foam up can trick a macerating unit into running continuously.Manufacturers offer their own specialized cleaners, or you can save money by using plain old vinegar to clean the bowl and limescale inside the unit. When a sink is connected, try to use a soap that does not lather too much. 90003 90006 Sewage Ejector Systems 90007 90002 What about those situations where the toilet location is below the main drain, but not a significant distance from it? In those cases, waste does not need to be liquefied for easier horizontal transport through a small-diameter pipe — it only needs to go up into the main drain.Instead of paying for a feature you do not need, you can use a sewage ejector pump instead. 90003 90002 Sewage ejector pumps work like most other pumps, but have the advantage of being able to pass solids — usually up to 2 inches in diameter. The pump sits in a sealed sump pit basin, where the toilet and any other fixtures discharge. A float switch usually controls the operation, turning the pump on once the wastewater in the basin reaches a certain level. Some units utilize control panels and alarms (in case of pump failure), which can also be added to many systems.90003 90002 It’s always best to consult with a plumber about the type and size of sewage pump that’s right for the situation. Aside from their familiarity with these systems, they should also be knowledgeable about any regulations or special considerations that might apply. Correctly sizing the pump is a somewhat convoluted affair, and involves a few calculations. For heavy-duty situations, a duplex system might even be required. 90003 90002 Whatever your reasons for wanting a bathroom below grade or away from the main drain, you no longer need to compromise or scrap those plans — sewage ejector pumps and macerating toilets show that where there’s a will, there’s a way.With proper installation and mindful use, these systems can keep a bathroom running for years to come, wherever it might be. 90003 .