Как построить дом каркасно щитовой: пошаговая инструкция строительства своими руками

Как построить каркасно-щитовой дом: этапы строительства

Сегодня многих людей интересует возможность самостоятельно построить каркасно-щитовой дом. Почему люди хотят строить дом своими руками? Прежде всего это обойдется не так дорого, как услуги профессиональных рабочих. Во-вторых, редкие компании могут построить щитовой дом «как для себя». В данной ситуации вам поможет технология самостоятельного строительства домов. Щитовой дом требует минимум времени, средств и усилий. Среди основных преимуществ подобного дома можно выделить относительно невысокую стоимость, возможность строительства в зимнюю пору, высокие показатели энергосбережения, экологичность, сжатые сроки строительства, возможность архитектурной выразительности, пожаробезопасность, высокие эксплуатационные показатели, а также возведение конструкции без строительной техники.

Конструкция каркасно-щитового дома.

Подготовка проекта

Каркасные дома сооружаются из плоских компонентов с проведением последующей укрепляющей отделки. К примеру, в Канаде практически каждый хозяин лично принимает участие в строительстве своего дома. У них это происходит так: семья нанимает профессионала, который контролирует все этапы строительства и руководит работой. Все же операции по строительству выполняются будущими владельцами дома. Практика показывает, что такой подход оправдывает себя. Расходы на строительство снижаются, а качество работы под руководством специалиста возрастает.

Чертеж каркасно-щитового дома.

Правильно построить каркасно щитовой дом – значит существенно облегчить работу и снизить к минимуму требования к квалификации и количеству строителей. вы можете прибегнуть к помощи профессиональных рабочих, однако сейчас достаточно трудно найти компанию, которая вела бы свою деятельность достаточно долго (более 50 лет), чтобы можно было объективно оценить результаты ее работы. Каркасные дома отлично возводятся и без привлечения специалистов. Если вы решили построить подобный дом самостоятельно, нужно четко следовать технологии и последовательно проходить все этапы строительства.

Первое, что вам будет нужно, – это проектирование. Если у вас нет таких навыков, лучше доверить данную работу архитекторам. Однако если у вас есть время и желание, вы можете попробовать овладеть архитектурными программами.

Заранее продумайте расположение дома, подумайте о соседних домах, чтобы ваше жилище гармонично вписывалось в окружающий ландшафт.

Определитесь с размерами участка и этажами. Продумайте системы вентиляции, электроснабжения, отопления, канализации и водоснабжения. От этого зависит количество и размер комнат. К примеру, может понадобиться отдельная комната для котельной.

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Выбор места для строительства каркасно-щитового дома

План каркасно-щитового дома.

При выборе места для строительства учитывайте пути сообщения, уровень грунтовых вод и структуру грунта. Щитовые каркасные дома имеют большое преимущество в том, что их строительство может вестись и на слабых грунтах (присадочных, илистых).

Как правило, проекты таких домов рассчитаны на ровную строительную площадку. Однако редко случается, что участки под строительство соответствуют абсолютно всем параметрам. Проект можно привязать к особенностям местности и изменить цокольную и подземную часть дома, не меняя ландшафт.

Перед началом строительных работ подготовьте следующие инструменты:

• электрический лобзик;
• дисковую пилу;
• лазерный или обычный уровень;
• молоток на 0,5 кг и на 1 кг;
• металлический угольник;
• шуруповерт с 2 аккумуляторами по 19 В;
• большие клещи;
• гвоздодер;
• ручную ножовку;
• рулетку на 3 м и на 7 м;
• маленький легкий и средний топор.

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Рекомендации по планированию

Конструкция щитового дома.

Технология строительства каркасно-щитовых домов основывается на том, что сначала нужно собрать первичные конструкции. Обычно это делается в специальных цехах, где нарезается основа для рам подходящей длины, после чего она закрепляется гвоздями, шурупами или скобами.

В качестве основы для рамы выступают нижняя и верхняя горизонтальные части. Между ними устанавливаются вертикальные подпорки, так чтобы они были на расстоянии 625 или 815 мм друг от друга. Получается, что так можно выстроить каркасные стены любой длины. Дверные и оконные проемы можно сделать в любом месте. Планирование каркасно-щитового дома не зависит от расстояния между вертикальными подпорками рамы.

Деревянная рама будет принимать на себя поступающие вертикальные нагрузки конструкции, возникающие под давлением собственного веса и из-за поперечных нагрузок. Каркасные дома нуждаются в дополнительной защите стен от ветровых нагрузок. Для этого выполняется обшивка рамы по всей площади. Для обшивки можно использовать древесностружечную плиту, плиту со специальным направлением или фанеру. Отделанная по такой технологии стена будет не только очень прочной, но и защищенной от неблагоприятных внешних воздействий.

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Инструкция по возведению фундамента

Ввиду того что каркасно щитовой дом является достаточно легким, необходимости в использовании очень глубокого фундамента нет. Можно воспользоваться ленточным фундаментом или же основанием в виде монолитной плиты. Для начала необходимо вырыть траншею требуемого размера на глубину порядка 2 м. Уровень глубины зависит от особенностей климата в вашем регионе.

Устройство фундамента каркасно-щитового дома.

Траншея выравнивается, после чего устанавливается опалубка из обрезных досок по ширине траншеи. Высота деревянной опалубки должна быть как минимум на 40 м выше верхней кромки ямы. Для изготовления опалубки можно использовать обрезную доску 1 или 3 сорта толщиной в 20-25 мм и длиной в 3,4-6 м, брусок сечением 50х50 мм и гвозди длиной 70-80 мм.

После установки опалубки на дно траншеи укладывается слой кирпича, битого шифера, камней и т.д. Толщина такого бутового слоя не должна превышать 1/3 глубины траншеи. Далее поверхность засыпается слоем песка толщиной около 20 см, после чего все заливается водой. Подождите, пока вода сойдет, после чего снова засыпьте песок и добавьте воду.

Вам придется повторить эту процедуру несколько раз. Все зависит от того, как будет уходить песок. После того как его уровень почти перестанет меняться, можно сделать вывод, что все пустое пространство уже заполнено, так что теперь можно приступать к созданию каркаса. Для этого используются трубы, уголок, арматура и т.д. Бетонный раствор для фундамента готовится из цемента М-500, песка, мелкого гравия и воды.

Схема каркасного фундамента.

Идеально, если вам удастся найти бетономешалку. Строительный раствор готовится из 1 части цемента, 3 частей песка, 5 частей гравия и некоторого количества воды. Чтобы понять, достаточно ли воды, возьмите некоторое количество раствора и сделайте из него ком наподобие снежка. Если ком не будет распадаться и растекаться, то воды вы добавили в самый раз. Приготовленную бетонную смесь следует залить в траншею, после чего утрамбовать. Старайтесь как можно точнее рассчитать необходимое количество смеси, чтобы не тратить лишние деньги. Запомните: готовьте ровно столько раствора, сколько сможете использовать за 1 день.

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Как сделать стены?

После того как фундамент будет готов, наступает этап сооружения стен каркасно-щитового дома и возведения постройки. В первую очередь нужно сделать изоляционную подложку. Для этого подойдет рубероид. Данный материал прост в работе и стоит относительно недорого. После того как работы по гидрозащите основания будут завершены, можно начинать закладку основания стен каркасно-щитового дома.

Для этого в месте предполагаемого крепления необходимо сделать отверстие, после чего вбить в местах соединения бруса штырь из сухой древесины, его еще называют нагель. Так делают для того, чтобы увеличить жесткость соединения бруса. Нагель должен входить в отверстие с определенным натягом. Технология позволяет использовать это соединение как угловое или же для переруба стены.

Схема стены каркасно-щитового дома.

Высота основания для каркаса дома должна соответствовать высоте 2 брусьев. В соответствии с технологией строительства каркасно-щитовых домов, после того как будут уложены закладные брусья, в верхнем брусе нужно проделать пропил приблизительно в ½ бруса. Ширина выборки при этом должна соответствовать ширине бруса, который будет использоваться для стоек.

Стойки, предварительно напиленные по размеру требуемой высоты, вставляются в отверстия. Для их закрепления используются наклонные подпорки, соединяющие 2 узла каркаса. После завершения установки всех стоек нужно скрепить верхний брус и заранее выпиленные отверстия. Затем в пазы следует вставить верхние концы стоек.

Запомните, что расстояние между пазами должно быть таким же, как дистанция отверстий, подготовленных на закладном (нижнем) брусе. Несколько раз проверьте отсутствие перекоса и наклона, задействовав для этого отвес и строительный уровень. После этого необходимо закрепить стойки с помощью укосин, а временные укосины из досок убрать.

Далее выполняется закрепление продольных перемычек из бруса по аналогичной технологии, отверстие в отверстие, с тем лишь отличием, что их необходимо собирать между собой при помощи обычных строительных гвоздей длиной от 100 мм. Лишь после этого можно начинать обшивать внешнюю стену, не заколачивая, при этом, проемы дверей и окон.

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Наружные работы: доступные варианты

Схема внешней отделки каркасно-щитового дома.

Каркасно-щитовой дом может иметь несколько разных вариантов внешней отделки стен. Можно использовать виниловый или металлический сайдинг. В последнее время для отделки часто используется блок-хаус. Стены из данного материала внешне похожи на оцилиндрованное бревно и не продуваются.

Этот материал очень легко устанавливается. После завершения монтажа панели покрываются специальным составом от возгорания, который позволяет продлить срок службы материала. вы можете использовать панели, имитирующие натуральный брус. Как правило, для их производства используется хорошо высушенная древесина высокого качества.

При строительстве каркасно-щитового дома можно использовать декоративную штукатурку, которая имеет большой срок службы. Такое декоративное покрытие позволяет добиться самых разных результатов, даже имитации натурального камня. Еще один популярный способ отделки – искусственный камень.

Схема внешней отделки каркасно-щитового дома кирпичом.

Не забывайте и о вагонке, самом простом и доступном варианте для отделки каркасно-щитовых домов. Однако она подвержена влажности, поэтому спустя определенное время придется делать перетяжку. Можно использовать сочетание разных видов отделки, что будет выглядеть очень красиво и интересно. Любая внешняя отделка требует соответствующего ухода и периодического обновления защитного покрытия.

При установке наружной обшивки будьте предельно аккуратны, чтобы в результате не пришлось все переделывать. Закрепление листов нужно начинать с угла и продолжать по кругу. Затем можно постелить чистовой пол и установить двери и окна.

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Необходимые внутренние работы

Для утепления стен каркасно-щитового дома используются разнообразные материалы: пенопласт, керамзит, минеральная вата, котельный шлак и другие. Наиболее качественными теплоизоляционными материалами являются пенопласт и минеральная вата. Керамзит и шлак используются в регионах, где зимой температура опускается ниже -20 градусов. Перед устройством утеплителя нужно уложить гидроизоляционный слой, который размещается между наружной стеной и теплоизоляционным материалом.

Схема утепления щитового дома.

Для гидроизоляции можно использовать полиэтиленовую пленку, но лучше всего,в соответствии с технологией строительства каркасного дома, взять пергаментную бумагу. Она раскраивается на полосы требуемых размеров, закрепляется к стене с помощью реек и фиксируется «лист на лист», не оставляя никаких просветов. Если для утепления будет использоваться минеральная вата, работа будет выполняться очень быстро, просто и качественно.

Для монтажа минеральной ваты используются бруски 15х20 см. Желательно набивать их вертикально. На стыки плит утеплителя набиваются бруски большей ширины, чем те, которыми минеральная вата крепится посредине.

После завершения утепления наступает очередь внутренней обшивки. Внутренняя отделка, как и наружная, имеет множество разнообразных вариантов. Стены можно отделать гипсокартоном, краской, художественной росписью или гладким деревом. При желании их можно отделать шпунтованной доской, которая в процессе крепления к подпоркам каркаса размещается горизонтально.

Внутренняя обшивка стен каркасно-щитового дома должна доходить до пологовых стен, чтобы доска не уходила под стену при сооружении пола. В данном случае ее можно будет легко заменить при необходимости ремонта. В качестве пола лучше всего подойдет паркет или деревянный настил.

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Инструкция по монтажу кровли

Схема кровли каркасно-щитового дома.

Крыша каркасно-щитового дома устанавливается традиционными способами. Как правило, выполняется установка стропил, после чего создается обрешетка, делается гидроизоляция и укладывается выбранное кровельное покрытие. Если в доме есть мансарда, то нужно дополнительно установить пароизоляционный слой. Крыша обязательно утепляется.

Полный монтаж кровли каркасно-щитового дома включает в себя перечень работ по грамотному устройству каркаса крыши, гидроизоляции, теплоизоляции, обрешетки, контробрешетки, пароизоляции, устройству прочих кровельных аксессуаров. Начало кровельных работ определяется выбором конфигурации кровли и кровельного покрытия. При выборе кровли необходимо учитывать назначение здания. Если для создания крыши будет использоваться металлочерепица, то в данном случае обрешетка нужна не будет, т.к. листы данного материала достаточно твердые и грубые.

Для крепления подобного вида крыши используются шурупы-саморезы. Листы необходимо прикладывать к основанию так, чтобы край листа оказывался примерно на 40 мм ниже карниза. Благодаря этому образуется вентиляционная щель.

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Рекомендации по монтажу инженерных коммуникаций

Схема прокладки инженерных сетей каркасно-щитового дома.

Самостоятельная установка инженерных коммуникаций – дело достаточно сложное. Простой человек, без надлежащего опыта и подготовки, может с этим и не справиться, поэтому лучше всего обратиться к специалистам. Однако, если вы решили сделать это своими силами, для начала нужно обязательно изучить правила устройства электроустановок.

В этом достаточно обширном своде документов подробно рассмотрены особенности и этапы выполнения электротехнических работ. После этого вам нужно будет обратиться в местные органы энергоснабжения. Там вы получите технические условия для подключения своего дома к районной энергосистеме. Примерно такие же действия необходимо совершить для подключения водоснабжения, отопления и канализации. Лучше заниматься подобными работами при контроле со стороны опытного специалиста.

В завершение вам останется лишь установить двери и окна и навести последние штрихи. В каркасно-щитовых домах можно устанавливать любые двери и окна. Самое главное, чтобы они подходили по размерам, были изготовлены из качественных материалов и в полной мере соответствовали вашим требованиям.

Строительство каркасно-щитовых домов с каждым днем становится все более популярным. Такой дом является комфортным, надежным, уютным и красивым. Его можно использовать в течение всего года, установив качественное утепление и необходимые защитные системы. Удачного и легкого вам строительства!

90000 How To Build an A-frame House Step-By-Step 90001 90002 A-frame houses are relatively easy to build if you buy a construction kit. However, the process requires commitment and good skills. 90003 90002 In this article, I want to make it very simple for you and put in your hands a list of practical steps to follow to make your house happen. 90003 90006 1. Know what you need 90007 90002 The first step would be to pick a model and start to plan with that in mind. 90009 Unfortunately, it is not possible to pick a model if you do not have a crystal clear idea of ​​what you want to do with it and what you need it for.90009 90003 90002 We stress a lot on the need to create your own vision first. We mean it … that’s how you should start. 90009 90003 90006 2. Pick a model and set a figure 90007 90002 Once you know what you want to build, pick a house kit model. 90009 Note we do not recommend to build the house from scratch (that’d be a suicidal mission). You need to start with a ready-made solution, a house kit, which has been designed and tested. 90009 A home kit comes with no surprises. 90003 90002 If you use one of our kits, you can pick your model and get a quote.90003 90002 The number you get is for the house kit only and, usually, you need to account double that number to get the house finished. 90009 90025 NB 90026: to this number you have to add the cost of the land. 90003 90002 This is just to give you a ballpark figure of the budget you need to have in order to pull this off. 90003 90002 Before you start the project you’ll need to get into the fine details of the budget and account for everything you are gonna have to buy to finish up the house (more about this in a moment).90003 90006 3. Can you afford it? 90007 Based on the number you got at step 2, make a quick reality check and see if you can afford to build. 90009 If you do not, not all hope is lost. You can park this idea for a few years and come back to it once your financial situation gets better or choose a smaller model. 90009 90006 4. Pick a land 90007 90002 Needless to say, to build a house you need a piece of land. 90009 If you have it already, good. If you do not, now it is time to go looking for one.See the next points for tips on what to keep in mind. 90009 90003 90006 5. Download drawings 90007 90002 Get the drawings for the particular model you chose and print them out. 90009 You’ll need them in the next step when you go seek for preliminary approval. 90003 90006 6. Get a preliminary approval 90007 90002 To build a house you need permission from the Municipality. 90009 It is a good idea to get a preliminary permission BEFORE you make any other move.90009 90003 90002 If you own a land already, you want to make sure you can build an A-frame house on it. 90009 90003 90002 Despite being a very old type of construction, A-frame houses are seen sometimes as a novelty and they are not welcomed by approval authorities. 90003 90002 One of the biggest obstacles to approval is the slope fo the roof. Make sure your municipality is fine with it and that they are ready to give you approval on the particular piece of land you own. 90009 90003 90002 If you do not own any land yet, you have the luxury to iterate the process until you find a location where they allow you to build your dream home.90009 90003 90002 Countryside locations tend to have less constrains in terms of what one can build. 90009 90003 90006 7. Plan everything in detail 90007 90002 If you get this far you are in the 1% of people who stand by their desires and take action to shape their reality. 90009 90003 90002 Congratulations! 90009 90003 90002 At this point, you need to start planning the works, get a clear idea of ​​all the material and services you need to order and how much it will all cost. 90009 90003 90002 To help you with this, we have two guides: 90009 90003 90081 90082 the 100 Questions Guide (44 pages), which deals with the mindset of building a home from scratch and teaches you 100+ important things you should pay attention to .90083 90082 the Budgeting Guide (30 pages + spreadsheet), which helps you to figure out the total cost for your build. 90083 90086 90009 Both guides are useful tools that can be used to build any type of house (not just A-frames). 90002 Do not be overwhelmed by the homework you have to do in this step. It is totally feasible and we are willing to help. 90003 90006 8. Get your finances straight 90007 90002 With the full budget you prepared, go meet your bank and secure a loan for the construction.90003 90002 In case you do not need one … congratulations, you can jump to the next step. 90003 90002 Note that banks appreciate details and they’ll love the budget you’ll prepare using our budgeting guide. 90003 90002 Also, the more detailed the budget, the fewer surprises you’ll have to face during construction. 90003 90006 9. Order the kit 90007 90002 Time to order the house kit and to book all the other services you’ll need to finish up the house. 90003 90002 If you wonder what those other services would be, the 100 Questions Guide is a good place to start to shed clarity on that.90003 90006 10. Build the foundation 90007 90002 The foundation must be ready before the kit arrives on your property. 90003 90002 You need to prepare the property of the works, to arrange groundworks and build the foundation properly. 90003 90002 You can find some tips in this article. 90003 90006 11. Assemble the structure 90007 90002 Once you get the kit, you need to put it together on the foundation you already built. 90009 90003 90002 The assembly work can be done by you and your family (or friends) or by local carpenters.90009 A combination of both will also work. Ultimately it is up to you how to set up this phase of the work. 90009 90003 90006 12. Make it weathertight 90007 90002 Getting the house weatherproof is your number one priority at this point. 90003 90002 With the kit, you’ll get the windproofing membrane, the roof cover, the windows. With those components you can quickly close the house, so you can start working «indoor». 90003 90006 13.Install the insulation 90007 90002 Then next thing you want to do is to install the insulation material in the roof and in the front and back walls. 90009 90003 90002 Insulation takes a lot of space. For this reason, it is not delivered with the kit. You have to source it locally. 90003 90002 Insulation shall be installed properly since it has the important function to keep your house warm. There is no room for error here. 90003 90006 14. Install the air-tight layer 90007 90002 The insulation needs to be protected from the inside with a vapor membrane that shields the insulation material from the humid indoor air.90009 90003 90002 Failure to shield the insulation properly will cause vapor to penetrate into the insulation and to condensate. 90009 Wet insulation loses its thermal properties and, over time, it will rot and generate mold. 90009 90003 90002 Getting the house air-tight is a must. 90009 You should plan to make a door-blower test to check how air-tight you managed to make it. 90003 90006 15. Finish the exterior 90007 Once the «urgent works» are done, you can close up the facade and eaves and give to the house its final exterior look.90006 16. Technical installations 90007 90002 Next, you can now start working inside. It is time to take care of: 90003 90081 90082 electricity 90083 90082 plumbing 90083 90082 ventilation 90083 90082 heating 90083 90082 eventual fireplace or stove 90083 90086 Some of these technical installations need special licenses to be put together. You should check with your municipality on what you are allowed to do yourself and what you must contract to a specialized company.90002 In any case, those things should be planned well in advance and budgeted to the finest detail. 90003 90006 17. Finish the interiors 90007 Interior finish works are very time-consuming. Plan to spend here most of the time for the construction of the house. 90002 Interior finishing works include: 90003 90081 90082 closing up everything with wooden boards (or gypsum boards if that’s your wish) 90083 90082 installing stairs 90083 90082 installing flooring material 90083 90082 installing window and floor trims 90083 90082 painting the interiors 90083 90082 tiling the bathroom and the kitchen 90083 90082 installing bathroom-ware 90083 90082 installing kitchen-ware 90083 90086 90006 18.Furnish it up 90007 90002 When you get here, most of the work is done. 90003 90002 It is time to give some personality to your new home. 90003 90002 Buy the stuff you want to have inside and turn the empty space into a cozy nest for your family. 90003 90006 19. Clean up the site 90007 90002 No, you are not done yet. 90009 Outside everything is a mess. You need to clean it up. 90003 90002 Wood scraps, board cuts, wiring, stones … 90009 90003 90002 It usually takes more than one season to clean the site properly… unless you order this as a service. 90003 90006 20. Landscaping works 90007 90002 Once the house is done and the property is cleaned up, you should still have some space in your budget to plant some trees and make your piece of land look like a small paradise. 90009 90003 90006 Conclusions 90007 90002 Congratulations! 90009 You made it to the very end of this article and you should now have a better picture of all the steps you need to take to build an A-frame house … or any kind of kit home for that matter.90009 90003 90002 It is a lot of work and there are a lot of details you should not overlook. 90003 90002 Building a house from scratch is not something you can do without preparation … so make sure you allocate enough time to get proper knowledge. 90009 90003.90000 How to Build an A-Frame — DIY 90001 90002 90003 The following is an excerpt from 90004 Cabins & Cottages 90003 (Fox Chapel Publishing, 2011). Ready to make the leap from sheds and chicken coops to larger-scale DIY projects? Or just looking to expand your repertoire of carpentry skills? Meet 90004 Cabins & Cottages 90003, your comprehensive resource for building simple, affordable, permanent living spaces. From the woodworking and crafting pros at Fox Chapel Publishing, 90004 Cabins & Cottages 90003 leaves no know-how stone unturned, and it details how to design and build your structures to withstand some of the worst Mother Nature can dish out (heavy snow, flooding , high winds), making the book a worthy companion for any builder.This excerpt is from Chapter 3, «Four Simple Structures.» 90004 90011 90002 One of the sturdiest of all structures is the A-frame, whose skeleton consists simply of a row of triangles. The bases of the triangles are the joists that support the floor, and the sides are the rafters that hold the combined walls and roof. The simplicity of construction and comparatively low cost make it a popular choice for vacation cabins or an off-grid home. Any style of foundation can serve as its base. 90011 90014 Planning Your A-Frame 90015 90002 The most common shape is equilateral — joists and rafters are equal in length and set at angles of 60 degrees to each other.You can use different angles to modify the shape, however (see «Common Floor-to-Rafter Angles,» below). An A-frame can be built to almost any size simply by varying the number of triangles and their dimensions, but a cabin with a sleeping loft must have rafters at least 20 feet long to allow adequate headroom on both floors. For a small structure like the one described here, three people can lift the assembled triangles into place without the assistance of special equipment. A structure with rafters greater than 24 feet may prove too unwieldy for a crew of amateurs.Frame doors and windows in the end walls. For a large A-frame, plan a lot of windows to keep the interior from being too dark. 90011 90014 A-Frame Tools 90015 90020 90021 Screwdriver 90022 90021 Circular saw 90022 90021 C-clamps 90022 90021 Electric drill 90022 90021 Hammer 90022 90021 Carpenter’s level 90022 90021 Carpenter’s square 90022 90021 Plumb bob 90022 90021 Wrench 90022 90021 Saber saw 90022 90041 90014 A-Frame Materials 90015 90020 90021 1-by-2s, 2-by-4s 90022 90021 2-by-6s, 2-by-8s 90022 90021 Pressure-treated 2-by-6s, 2-by-10s, 4-by-4s 90022 90021 Exterior-grade plywood (3/4-inch) 90022 90021 Wood glue 90022 90021 Common nails (2-inch, 2 1/2-inch, 3 1/2-inch) 90022 90021 Galvanized common nails (2 1/2-inch, 3-inch, 3 1/2-inch) 90022 90021 Ring-shank nails (2 1/2-inch) 90022 90021 Wood screws (1 3/4-inch No.8) 90022 90021 Roofing materials 90022 90021 Carriage bolts (5/8-inch-by-6-inch; 1/2-inch-by-4-inch, 6-inch) 90022 90021 Lag screws (1/2-inch-by-4-inch) 90022 90021 Multipurpose and framing anchors and nails 90022 90021 Wooden ladder 90022 90021 Concrete mix 90022 90041 90014 Anatomy of an A-Frame 90015 90002 This 20-foot-per-side equilateral A-frame rests on tripled 2-by-10 pressure-treated beams supported by masonry block piers. The triangles, spaced 24 inches apart, are formed of 2-by-8 rafters joined at the apexes with plywood gussets and sandwiched at the bottom by pairs of pressure-treated 2-by-6 joists.(A cabin larger than this structure would require correspondingly larger framing lumber.) At the end walls and under the sleeping loft, horizontal 2-by-6 collar beams are fastened between the rafters. The rafters of the end walls are doubled to provide a flush nailing surface for the exterior sheathing. The sleeping loft, reached by a ladder, is framed by a railing secured to posts and rafters. Knee walls along the sides of the cabin provide concealed storage areas. The deck rests on 2-by-6 joists set 16 inches apart.Posts for the railing are secured to the deck joists. The stairs are set on concrete footings and are attached to the deck with metal framing anchors. All exposed wood is pressure-treated lumber. An asphalt-shingle roof is shown. 90011 90080 90080 90014 Common Floor-to-Rafter Angles 90015 90002 (Rafter length, joist length, rafter / joist angle, rafter / rafter angle) 90011 90002 90003 16 feet, 12 feet, 68 degrees, 22 degrees 90080 16 feet, 14 feet, 64.1 degrees, 26 degrees 90080 16 feet, 16 feet, 60 degrees, 30 degrees 90080 20 feet, 12 feet, 72.5 degrees, 17.5 degrees 90080 20 feet, 14 feet, 69.5 degrees, 20.5 degrees 90080 20 feet, 16 feet, 66.4 degrees, 23.6 degrees 90080 20 feet, 20 feet, 60 degrees, 30 degrees 90004 90011 90014 Cutting A-Frame Joists and Rafters 90015 90098 90021 To cut the joists and rafters quickly, make a jig for each angle to be cut. 90022 90021 Mark a scrap board at the angle of the joists or rafters and set it on a work surface. 90022 90021 Place a 2-by-4 on each side of the board and fasten them down with screws.90022 90021 Align a 1-by-2 with the mark and screw it to the 2-by-4s as a cutting guide. 90022 90021 Run a circular saw along the guide, cutting a kerf through all three boards. 90022 90021 Remove the scrap board and replace it with a joist or rafter, marked to length. 90022 90021 Align the mark with the kerf and cut the board. 90022 90021 Cut the other end so both cuts angle toward the middle. 90022 90115 90014 Assembling the A-Frame Triangles 90015 90098 90021 Clamp the ends of two joists around the base of a rafter, aligning the ends and edges of the boards, and drill a 5/8-inch hole through the three layers.90022 90021 Fasten the boards together with a 5/8-by 6-inch carriage bolt, washer and nut. 90022 90021 Bolt the opposite ends of the joists to the base of another rafter in the same way. 90022 90021 From 3/4-inch exterior-grade plywood, cut two triangular gussets to the same angle as the A-frame. 90022 90021 Butt the top ends of the rafters together and fasten the gussets to each side of the seam with wood glue and 1 3/4-inch No. 8 wood screws. 90022 90021 Add a second carriage bolt to each joist-rafter joint.90022 90021 Assemble the remaining triangles in the same way, but secure gussets to just one side of each end triangle. 90022 90021 Allowing for at least 7 feet of headroom, mark both rafters of each triangle at the end walls and under the loft for collar beams. For each triangle, cut two collar beams to fit between the outside edges of the rafters, and then bolt them on as you did the joists. 90022 90021 Cut 1-by-2 spacers to the joist width and fasten them with 2-inch common nails between all of the pairs of joists and collar beams at 2-foot intervals.90022 90021 Double the rafters of the end triangles: Cut four lengths of rafter lumber — two to fit between the joists and collar and two between the beams and rafter peaks — and nail them to the outsides of the rafters with 2 1/2-inch nails . 90022 90115 90014 Erecting the A-Frame Triangles 90015 90098 90021 Mark the triangle locations on the beams at 2-foot intervals. 90022 90021 Nail scabs — 1-foot-long 2-by-4s — to the insides of the outer beams on each side of the marks for the front end triangle.90022 90021 With a pair of helpers, lift and position the end triangle on the beam between the scabs. 90022 90021 Plumb the triangle and brace it with two 2-by-4s nailed diagonally between the rafters and outer beams so the top of each brace is least 4 1/2 feet from the base of the rafters. 90022 90021 Position and plumb the remaining triangles in the same way, bracing them with a 1-by-2 nailed to each side of the adjacent triangle. 90022 90021 When all of the triangles have been braced, remove the scabs and attach the triangles to the beams, installing a multipurpose framing anchor to each side of every joist.In a high-wind area, use hurricane ties. Nail the bottom corners of the triangles to the beams. 90022 90021 Sheathe the outside of the frame, laying decking for shakes, or 4-by-8 panels of 5/8-inch exterior-grade plywood for metal roofing or asphalt shingles. Work from bottom to top, fastening the sheathing with 2 1/2-inch common nails. Leave a 1/8-inch gap around panels and stagger the joints. Remove the bracing after you lay the bottom course of panels. 90022 90021 Cover the floor with plywood.90022 90115 90014 Finishing Touches 90015 90002 If the A-frame includes a loft, provide it with stairs or a ladder and a sturdy railing. Rest a deck, if you build one, on the same foundation as the main structure and surround it with a railing. Buy deck stairs at a building center or construct them on site. Install insulation between the floor joists, rafters and end wall studs as you build. 90011 90164 90002 90003 Reprinted with permission from 90004 Cabins & Cottages 90003, published by Fox Chapel Publishing, 2011 року.90004 90011.90000 Example of building a frame-panel house (photo + stages) | With Your Hands 90001 90002 90003 90002 Today we will talk about the construction of a frame-panel house on German technology in its diverse design. 90003 90006 Seven components of energy efficiency. 90007 90008 90002 The first point of the program is professional design, including a rational and compact spatial planning solution, a thoughtful landing of the house on the site (orientation of the main facade to the south).90003 90002 The next important condition is effective thermal insulation, which ensures a comfortable microclimate and energy saving. The walls and roof structures are built in such a way that they are diffusion open to the outside (that is, they do not let out the internal steam, but accumulate it). In addition, an air gap is provided under the roof covering, which provides natural ventilation of the roof. An important factor of energy saving is tightness, which excludes the formation of drafts, penetration of dust and noise, and also increases the efficiency of the ventilation system.Provision of airtightness is a significant contribution to the energy conservation savings due to the reduction of convection heat losses. 90003 90002 The fourth component of the DeutscheWand standard is the use of innovative engineering equipment. The fifth component is the use of energy-saving window and door products. 90003 90002 The windows are made from a multi-profile PVC system profile and filled with sealed double-glazed windows. The necessary thermal characteristics are also achieved through quality installation.90003 90002 Then follows the principle — no loopholes for heat. 90003 90002 When designing and building a house, everything is done to exclude the formation of so-called cold bridges. And finally, the seventh point is multi-stage continuous quality control and application of high-tech and high-quality construction materials, products and equipment. The result is a real energy-efficient house — warm, cozy and does not require huge heating costs. 90003 90021 90002 Reference by topic: Frame house with their own hands — the stages of independent construction (photos and drawings) 90003 90021 90006 Step 1: Fabrication of the frame of the frame-panel house 90007 90008 90002 The frame of wall panels is made of first-class, well-dried wood, without the slightest hint of any blemishes.Racks and crossbars (strapping) are cut from a bar of impeccable geometry. The precision of the workpiece preparation and subsequent assembly is performed with the help of professional high-precision and trouble-free equipment. The work is carried out in a well-equipped woodworking shop. The dry tree is practically not subject to shrinkage deformations, that is, it does not shrink or shrink with time. 90003 90006 Step 2: The form and content of the frame-panel house 90007 90008 90002 The space between the pillars is filled with heat-insulating slabs made of basalt wool.The products are laid down by the enemy. without the use of any fasteners. Mineral wool insulation keeps high thermal performance throughout its life. Over time, the plates do not settle and do not compact. Basalt cotton wool does not burn and does not support burning. Moreover, it prevents the spread of fire and thus provides fire safety at home as a whole. From the penetration of moisture insulation protects a special vapor and waterproofing membrane. 90003 90006 Step 3: Closed path 90007 90008 90002 Thermal insulation boards are laid in two layers.Such powerful insulation provides a favorable microclimate in the house with minimal heating costs. In addition, mineral wool is a beautiful soundproof material. It perfectly protects the interior of the house from noise, which is especially important for country houses located near motorways or railways. Filled with insulation and «wrapped» in the insulation panel sheathed with waterproof sheet materials — oriented chipboards and special fibreboard, which have good thermal insulation ability. Double cladding serves as an excellent basis for the decorative finishing of the cottage.90003 90006 Step 4: The foundation of a frame-panel house 90007 90008 90002 While in the shop they make a set of panels, the foundation of the future house is being built on the construction site. The bottom of the pit is carefully leveled, covered with sand, which is compacted with a rammer. Then a geotextile is laid — a filtering material that facilitates the removal of groundwater. Then they perform crushed stone, which is also rammed by an automated rammer. Along the way, a drainage pipeline is laid, install inspection holes for the drainage system.On the perimeter of the foundation slab there is a wooden formwork. 90003 90006 Step 5: Reinforcement framework 90007 90008 90002 On the prepared base, the spatial reinforcement cage of the reinforced concrete slab foundation is assembled. After that, pour in the concrete mixture, which is fed directly from the machine-mixer (with a pump). The surface of the reinforced concrete slab is leveled, if possible, «to zero». When the concrete hardens and gains sufficient strength, the formwork is removed and the basement is warmed.The slabs are laid with extruded polystyrene boards — an exceptionally effective heat insulator. almost not absorbing moisture. 90003 90006 Step 6: Heat under your feet 90007 90008 90002 At the stage of erecting the foundation, a floor heating system is installed. The layer of extruded polystyrene is covered with a strong and reliable waterproofing film. Even the heating pipe is installed — the outline of the system is a warm water floor. In order not to damage the pipes when pouring with concrete, they are placed in protective covers.The hinges of the pipeline are fixed to the reinforcing mesh with special plastic clamps. Mounted circuits are connected to the distribution manifold (system control panel) and poured with concrete. 90003 90006 Step 7: Housekit 90007 90008 90002 According to the project on the foundation slab or. rather, on the surface of the rough floor of the first floor, the lining boards are attached, which serve as an intermediate support for the installation of wall panels delivered from the production department.The housekeeper is delivered to the construction site by special vehicles. 90003 90002 Installation is carried out practically from the wheels. The assembly of the first floor panels takes an average of two to three work shifts. The panel fragments are joined together by means of high-strength steel fasteners. As a result, even during installation, the assembled part of the house has unshakable stability. 90003 90021 90002 Reference by topic: Inexpensive frame house with own hands 90003 90021 90006 Step 8: Installing Wall Panels 90007 90008 90002 The wall panels are connected not only in the vertical, but also in the horizontal plane.Wooden beams overlap significantly contribute to the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole. In the girder cover, a hidden method is laid by engineering communications — electrical wiring, water pipes and so on. 90003 90002 Free space is filled with mineral wool. Wall panels are supplied with already inserted window blocks made of energy-saving multi-chamber PVC profile. At the request of the customer, the façade finish can also be carried out in the factory. In our example panels are lined with vinyl siding.90003 90006 Step 10: Mounting of skeleton panels 90007 90008 90002 Frame elements are mounted using a self-propelled crane. Panels of various types are raised to the specified mark, for example, to the level of the attic floor. The final installation is done manually, since the components of the frame-panel kit have a small mass, and the effort of two or three people is enough to «bring» them to the design position. During the assembly process, it is important to keep the panels in the state in which they arrived from the workshop.In order not to risk a beautiful wooden frame and other components of wall constructions, the unfinished structure is closed with dense polyethylene. 90003 90006 Step 10: Layout and arrangement 90007 90008 90002 A compact, rational and comfortable layout is one of the key advantages of our house. The first floor is designed on the principle of free space, which makes it filled with air and light. In the attic there are private rooms — bedrooms, a master’s room, a nursery. Such a planning solution opens the widest scope for creativity to the designer.Here you can beat the rural theme (the style of Provence and country), go along the classic path or embody in the interior of modern design ideas. 90003 90021 90002 Reference by topic: House for wireframe technology — Canadian, German and American (CIP panels) 90003 90021 90002 90003 90002 © T.Gagarina 90003 90091 90092 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90093 90094 90095 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90096 90097 Finishing the concrete stairs with your own hands Concrete staircase with wooden trim After… 90098 90097 Portable (mobile) swings and a horizontal bar with their own hands DIY outdoor sports corner Small … 90098 90097 How to make a scraper-ice ax with your own hands Do-it-yourself scraper from an ax Winter … 90098 90097 Protection of wooden roof overhangs What and how to protect the overhangs … 90098 90097 How to increase the house — Architect’s advice How to grow at home One fine … 90098 90097 Mini-veranda with own hands (drawing + photo) How to attach a mini-veranda to the house New… 90098 90097 Do-it-yourself tambour in a country house, country house — drawings and advice of an architect HOW TO BUILD A TAMBOUR — DRAWINGS … 90021 90111 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90096 90111 Let’s be friends! 90096 90098.90000 10 Things to Know Before Building an Oak Frame Home 90001 90002 Oak frame has seen a steady renaissance over the past couple of decades and self builders have played a big role in this popularity. 90003 90002 Here are 10 things you should know if you are planning on building your own home using an oak frame. 90003 90006 1. Oak frame is a Modern Method of Construction 90007 90002 Oak frame construction is in many ways a Modern Method of Construction — a term which, in broad terms, describes methods that involve off-site prefabrication.90003 90002 Oak frames are constructed off-site, and brought to site ready to be erected by an experienced team, often in under a week (depending on size and complexity). Infill panels of wattle and daub and later brick were originally used between the oak frame. Today, the oak frame still fulfils a structural role, but in order to meet Building Regulations, the frame is typically ‘encapsulated’ within an insulated, airtight envelope, often using SIPs (structural insulated panels) — again prefabricated off-site.90003 90002 «SIPs are fast becoming the encapsulation system of choice for oak frame buildings, as they form an unbroken high-performing thermal envelope, wrapped around the frame,» explains Rob Dawson of Castle Ring Oak. «When they go up, they go up quick.» 90003 90006 2. There are ways of exposing the frame internally and externally 90007 90002 An oak frame home, wrapped in an encapsulation system such as SIPs, can be clad in a variety of materials, including brick, timber and render. Some homeowners, however, still want the look of exposed oak frame on both the exterior and interior.The good news is there are ways of achieving this: some of the larger oak frame companies in particular have developed ingenious solutions. 90003 90002 Oakwrights, for instance, provides a bespoke system. Bill Keir, Oakwrights ‘general manager, picks up the story: «Our patented 3i panel system meets stringent Building Regulations. The beauty of the 3i panel is that it maintains the look of a traditional ‘half-timbered’ house externally. Rather than have every timber visible both internally and externally (which causes coldbridging) many of the timbers are half-width.This means that only the large structural beams and posts are visible both inside and out. 90003 90002 «All secondary timbers are only visible on one side which means an almost uninterrupted layer of insulation can be run around the walls. It is this principle that allows the 3i panel system to achieve a U value of 0.25 for the whole wall, not just through the centre of the panel. » 90003 90006 3. Approach a designer with experience of oak frame 90007 90002 Designing and detailing an oak frame house needs a designer well versed in this construction system.Look for an experienced designer who understands span and bays, as well as the limitations of oak. 90003 90002 «For construction drawings, it’s about understanding oak as a construction material. Oak frame is not as well understood by generalist architects and builders, yet the architectural detailing and the execution are crucial to lasting quality, «says Andy Parker of The Complete Oak Home. 90003 90002 There are independent designers and architects with experience of designing with oak frame; they may have ties with particular oak frame companies, too.Another option is that Oakwrights, Border Oak, Welsh Oak Frame and others offer an in-house design service as well as a portfolio of different house styles. They will work with your chosen designer. 90003 90006 4. Different oak frame suppliers offer different levels of service 90007 90002 Deciding how involved you want to be in the build can often influence your choice of oak frame supplier. Very few oak frame companies provide a full turnkey ‘package’ service. Those that do will often offer different levels of service too.For example, they may supply and erect the frame, or build the house to a weathertight shell (allowing you to project manage the groundworks prior and internal fit-out after). 90003 90002 Most oak companies will supply and erect the oak frame, and perhaps encapsulation system. One company offering something different is The Complete Oak Home. «We’re not an oak frame manufacturer but an independent multi-disciplinary team offering a full turnkey service which includes a unique project cost control process,» says Andy Parker.»We design and build oak frame homes, either recommending or using your own chosen oak frame supplier.» 90003 90006 5. Oak frames need to be cleaned once erected 90007 90002 «All oak frames will need cleaning once the construction phase has concluded,» begins Merry Albright of Border Oak. «There will be the typical marks from the building process, but there may also be water marks or ‘blue-ing’ — a natural occurrence from tannin in the oak touching steel.» 90003 90002 This task will normally be undertaken by the oak frame supplier, but some self builders — particularly those with an eye on the budget — choose to take this job on themselves.(Be warned, it’s time-consuming.) 90003 90002 There are several options, including the use of oxalic acid and sandblasting. «We recommend that frames are cleaned with oxalic acid as this is a softer and less intrusive process that allows the natural character of the oak to come through and also best showcases the detailing of the frame,» continues Merry. «Sandblasting can be a very messy process. 90003 90002 «Oxalic acid comes in crystal format and should be diluted to the manufacturer’s recommendation — it should also be applied in strict accordance to their guidance as it is an acid (albeit made from rhubarb).It very softly bleaches the marks away but gloves and a breathing mask in a well-ventilated space are crucial. Some stubborn marks may need a few applications with some sanding / scrubbing in between, «concludes Merry. 90003 90006 6. Oak does not need finishing 90007 90002 Part of the appeal of oak is that it does not need to be finished — externally it weathers to a silvery grey. There are some homeowners, however, who wish to retain the rich colour of green oak; this is possible, but it can be a labour of love.90003 90002 «There are treatments such as Sikkens or wax oils you can use to maintain the original colour, but once you start using such a treatment within an outside environment it will need to be repeated annually. Over time, sunlight will turn external timbers an attractive silvery grey, while oxidisation makes the internal wood more honeyed, which in our view is much nicer, «says Ed Hamilton of Oakmasters. 90003 90002 It is, however, a good idea to take extra care in rooms subject to high levels of humidity and in spaces where splashes may be more prevalent (e.g. the kitchen). «Water stains especially can mark the frame, so care needs to be taken with rooms such as bathrooms. If the frame is likely to get splashed it may be worth oiling it locally with a suitable product to give it some protection, «recommends Rupert Newman of Westwind Oak. 90003 90006 7. Shrinking is part of the process 90007 90002 «Shrinkage is the one factor that is guaranteed when using green oak,» begins Paul Edmunds of Welsh Oak Frame. 90003 90002 Green oak refers to unseasoned timber which has a higher moisture content than seasoned oak.»Green oak will have been felled in the past 18 months; the green oak frames will gradually lose moisture content and shrink over time, particularly in the first couple of years, «adds Ed Hamilton of Oakmasters. 90003 90002 «Almost all mainstream structural oak framing in the UK uses green oak, rather than kiln-dried or air-dried oak. For superior craftsmanship, green oak is much better than seasoned oak for cutting and shaping. 90003 90062 90063 The natural seasoning process does not weaken the structure, but makes the oak harder and stronger as it dries.In fact, oak is high density and has a strength / weight ration superior to steel, giving it great load-bearing capabilities. 90064 90063 Oak shrinks in width, not length, so there is no risk of a tennon slipping out of a mortice. 90064 90063 Cracks and splits (a characteristic of oak frame known as ‘shakes’) have very little effect on the structural integrity of the frame. As the grading system limits the angle at which the grain runs along a piece of oak, the splits which open up along the grain as the fibres dry and separate do not traverse the beam’s grain and thus do not weaken it, «says Ed.90064 90069 90002 Careful design and detailing on site, along with attention to the drying out process once the frame is erected, can minimise remedial work, as Paul Edmunds of Welsh Oak Frame, explains: «The condition of green oak is in a constant state of drying out from the point of felling, albeit slow. It is therefore critical that the skill and experience of the frame erector is recognised too. The expert eye of the carpenter on site is equally important in making sure that the frame goes up true and plumb and they have a keen eye on the condition of the oak before being assembled.90003 90002 «It’s also important to note that if the building is closed in too quickly and a heat source applied very soon after the frame has been lifted, the shock of being forced to dry out quickly can introduce dramatic splits within the structure. While not necessarily structurally worrying, they may be unsightly. » 90003 90002 Glazing also requires particular care. Face-applied glazing — whereby glazing is installed to the exterior of the frame, with an oak ‘strip’ used to disguise the join — is often used as a solution to oak shrinking.There are companies who specialise in this work, such as Black Pig Glazing. 90003 90006 8. An oak frame home can be achieved on a budget 90007 90002 «The most common misconception regarding oak frame homes is that they are beyond the ‘normal’ self builders ‘budgets,» says Rupert Newman, author of Oak-Framed Buildings . «Although it is true to say that they are more expensive than a standard softwood frame building, they are comparable with any good quality construction technique.» 90003 90002 There are some key steps which can help when building an oak frame home on a tight budget: 90003 90062 90063 Consider using oak in just key areas such as the kitchen, living room, dining area, entrance hall or master bedroom.Oak lintels, joinery and details can then be continued throughout the home. 90064 90063 Some rooms in the house just do not benefit from oak frame, indeed it can be detrimental to their function, such as in a utility room or boot room. Consider keeping these spaces clear of oak frame to make them more practical and reduce cost. 90064 90063 Choose a simple Queen post truss rather than complex arched brace trusses to keep costs down. 90064 90063 Only use oak frame for the primary structure (big posts and beams), rather than the secondary structure of every joist and rafter.90064 90069 90006 9. Introducing steel can open up the design opportunities 90007 90002 «Steelwork is often used to strengthen traditional carpentry joints and is typically unseen but allows us to create buildings which would not be possible using purely traditional methods,» begins Paul Slemmings , frame designer at Carpenter Oak. 90003 90002 «There are many aesthetic and engineering reasons to incorporate stainless steel into an oak timber frame,» adds Paul Kirkup, director and frame designer at Carpenter Oak, who have been involved in many an impressive self build project.»Steel bolts and flitch plates can be used to end join or sandwich timbers together, with the fixings left surface mounted for an industrial look or highly polished and recessed flush into the timber for a sleeker finish. 90003 90002 «Steel sections within a timber frame allow for many design possibilities, for example, when steel tie rods and bow strings are incorporated into an oak frame the spanning of huge spaces is easily achieved, without the need for huge sections of timber. When steel is combined with curved timber then barrel roofs and curved walls can also be introduced.»90003 90006 10. You can extend in oak frame 90007 90002 Oak frame can be a fantastic option if you are extending your home; there is perhaps no other construction method which offers such a versatile aesthetic. But there are a few factors to consider before deciding to extend in oak. 90003 90002 «Green oak frames shrink, so if you are thinking of extending your home with an oak frame it needs to be detailed correctly. Ideally the walls, roof and glazing need to go on the outside of the frame.Glazing, especially, should be properly detailed to prevent any water leakage, «says Rupert Newman of Westwind Oak. 90003 90002 «Oak framed extensions tend not to be tied in with existing masonry or timber framed homes in case there is differential movement. Normally they are built on their own foundations next to the existing structure. Then a watertight movement joint can be incorporated between the old and new. This simply could be the lead flashing on the roof or some expanding ‘Compriband’ foam on the walls.90003 .